Tips for independent travelers away from the big hotel complexes
- Puerto de Mogán
- Playa de Amadores
- Dünen von Maspalomas
- Agaete & Puerto de las Nieves
- Las Palmas & Altstadt La Vegueta
- Roque Nublo
Gran Canaria in February – a beach vacation in the middle of winter?
After work, halfway through my part-time studies next to work, and having submitted my first bachelor's thesis, I finally had the opportunity to take a week of eagerly awaited vacation in February. But where to go for a week? It had to be nice and warm—but in the middle of the Austrian winter? After much deliberation, we decided on the Canary Islands. It's supposed to be around 23°C there even in February. We already knew Tenerife, so this time we decided on Gran Canaria. To be honest, I wasn't too enthusiastic at first, as I had spent my high school graduation trip on Gran Canaria and remembered the island as a rather overbuilt party destination. But I let myself be persuaded to give the island another chance – and was proven wrong.
Getting there: Only a 4.5-hour flight from Munich
After a direct flight from Munich (approx. 4.5 hours), we were already looking forward to the sea, sun, beaches, mountains, and coastal landscape. We rented a car and booked accommodation through Airbnb for the first time. On the way from the airport, we stopped in Maspalomas and treated ourselves to our first cerveza and a leisurely lunch on the beach. Then we continued on to Puerto de Mogan, where we spent the first three nights. This cozy village is considered the “little Venice” of Gran Canaria and is located in the southwest of the island (about a 40-minute drive from the airport). Our apartment was only a few minutes' walk from the center and the beach, so we didn't really need the car there. The bus connections seemed to be very well developed, and it's probably easy to get around by public transportation. We spent our first few days in the beautiful, wind-protected bay and enjoyed the sun.
Puerto de Mogán – Gran Canaria's “little Venice”
We found some great restaurants, the people were all very friendly, and there weren't as many tourists as in other places. However, there is a relatively well-known market there every Friday, which tends to make the small village a bit crowded (although the market was ultimately canceled due to rain). To get an overview, I recommend the “Mirador” viewpoint, which is about a 10-minute walk away. The view is definitely worth the few steps up the stairs and was even accompanied by a guitarist playing music at the top. In the evening, we stumbled upon the most beautiful place to watch the sunset. At the end of the village, you walk as far as you can along the rocks and usually find a few people there, comfortably enjoying a drink and soaking up the great atmosphere. When the sun finally disappears into the sea, a small group starts singing a song, and every evening someone plays the guitar to accompany them. It's a fitting way to say goodbye to the sun.
Amadores Beach & Maspalomas Dunes
We also visited the neighboring towns and were particularly impressed by Playa de Amadores. This beach is also man-made and is located in a beautiful bay. The water was crystal clear and the beach was whiter than any other on Gran Canaria. There is a beach promenade that connects the beach with the village of Puerto Rico. But there, too, you will find the concrete hotel bunkers that I feared. We didn't stay there too long, but we enjoyed the walk by the sea. We continued south of the island and, after a short tour of the somewhat more luxurious-looking Meloneras, we arrived at the famous dunes of Maspalomas. As it was a slightly cloudy day, the temperature was perfect for a walk through this huge desert landscape. A highway of people stretched along the beach – apparently, several people thought the day was suitable for a walk on the beach. However, the further you walked up and down the dunes, the fewer people you saw.
Over the mountains to the north: Agaete & Puerto de las Nieves
After three days, we moved to the north of the island, to the capital Las Palmas. We decided not to take the well-developed highway in the east, but to drive through the mountains in the west of the island. The roads here are also in good condition, albeit a little narrower and windier, but definitely worth the drive. This allowed us to see some more remote little villages and many sugar cane and banana plantations. We then stopped in the small town of Agaete in the north. The town center itself is very small, but the nearby port town of Puerto de las Nieves is a great place to spend some time. Here you will find numerous nice little fish restaurants where you can enjoy the view of the cliffs.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – Beach, culture, and flair
In Las Palmas, we were once again impressed by the friendliness of the Canarians. Although the largest city in the Canary Islands is home to almost 400,000 inhabitants, it still didn't feel like a big city. We were staying near the auditorium, at the other end of the old town “La Vegueta.” However, the bus connections are excellent here too. The old town with its huge cathedral, the Mercado, and the Casa Colon is definitely worth a visit. The lively streets around it with great shops also invite you to stroll around. But what we liked best was the beach right in front of our apartment, and we weren't the only ones – numerous surfers enjoyed it too. Further east, along the more than 3 km long city beach, the waves became a little less and many sunbathers enjoyed relaxed afternoons there.
Sportevent: TransGranCanaria Ultra Trail
On our first evening in Las Palmas, we arrived just in time for a major event – the TransGranCanaria Ultra Trail. An incredible atmosphere, live music, traditional dances, and spectacular fireworks awaited the spectators – and runners, who started at 11 p.m. When we learned that they were setting off on a 128 km journey with 7,500 meters of elevation gain – in about 23 hours – we could hardly believe it. We were fascinated and had the deepest respect for the many international athletes.
Hiking in Gran Canaria: Roque Nublo
Fully motivated to get at least a little exercise, we wanted to go on a short hike. We had already read quite a bit about Roque Nublo and set off early for the mountains, as the weather forecast for the afternoon wasn't looking too good. At 1,813 meters, it is one of the landmarks of Gran Canaria, and even the drive there is rewarded with great viewpoints and charming little villages. However, the higher we climbed, the foggier it became – the weather forecast had been right earlier than planned, and soon the rain came and it became really stormy. We just managed to complete the short hike from the parking lot to the famous rock as quickly as possible and get back in the car, as it was getting really uncomfortable. There are numerous other hikes here, but we'll have to postpone them until our next visit.
Conclusion: A vacation in Gran Canaria is well worth it!
Gran Canaria is definitely worth a visit—even for those who aren't necessarily looking for an all-inclusive hotel, there are many ways to enjoy the island. Beaches, sea, culture, good food, friendly people, and some exercise in the mountains can all be combined here. We'll definitely be back to do a few more hikes :).
